Entries Tagged 'Tools' ↓

Before a recommendation on a specific tool can be made with confidence, the question I would need to have answered is: what are you trying to do? There really is not one specific tool that can do every job it encounters efficiently. That said, there are tools that are extremely versatile and should be in your tool collection if you intend to work on your own home or on projects for others. As it is a topic which I am overly enthusiastic about, I will start with power tools.

There are multiple tenets upon which to judge a tool’s usefulness and value by.  In my opinion, the following are the critical items one must consider when selecting and purchasing a tool. They are in order of importance with number one (1) being the most important.

1. Usefulness on specific project, positive impact on productivity/safety, likelihood of consistent reuse
2. Reasonable expected lifespan of the tool and durability
3. Warranties
4. Power, flexibility/versatility, compatibility with other tools or available kits
5. Weight and transportability
6. Purchase cost
7. Available accessories and accessory cost
8. Maintenance cost
9. Location of Manufacture and Brand

The individual weight each category carries can vary for each person, but these are the baselines that I draw to decide which tools I purchase.

Experience has taught me to research each tool before buying and not to trust tools that have a brand name that has a bad history or is likely not made by the name on the tool. For example, Craftsman-brand cordless tools are outsourced to a third party to manufacture and have (in my experience) short battery lives. That is not to say that all Craftsman tools have drawbacks – their mechanics tools are some of the best available. But be cautious about blindly trusting brands.

For cordless screwdrivers, the 12V lithium-ion tools by Milwaukee and Bosch are fantastic for those just starting out or those that want a lighter and more agile alternative to corded and heavy cordless tools. Unlike their predecessors, these drills can drive 3″ screws with little effort, the batteries charge quickly and are less likely to overheat, ad they are extremely lightweight. Don’t let the weight fool you though, there is plenty of power for their purpose.

Why does weight concern me? If you tend to tote a lot of tools around from job to job, every ounce of tool weight is an ache you will feel at the end of the day and possibly beyond. My back and shoulders instructed me to stow my machismo a long time ago in the interest of self-preservation. The result is more productive workdays and less aches at the end of those workdays.

So how do these two drills match up?

There are things I have not covered here.

• First- there are other tools and I am not trying to shun anybody. I have used both of these and I have a comfort level with them. Please feel free to suggest others if you so desire.
• Second- torque and RPMs. These drills are about the size of squirt-guns and therefore I don’t rank torque as being a high-priority. It doesn’t matter how much power it has if it breaks your wrist – there is too much torque. I only worry about a drill’s torque if it has a second or side-handle attachment.
• Third- clutch. You don’t need a clutch to drive 3″ screws into wood. The clutch is only useful for very delicate applications where stripping the screw is of a high likelihood, applications where you are desperately concerned about binding (such as when driving machine screws into a pre-threaded piece of metal), and for those that want to reign in the torque.
• Fourth- LED lights: many of these drills have small lights designed to illuminate the work area when the trigger is pulled. However, these are generally not very bright and are still a bit gimmicky in my opinion. If you can’t see your work piece, stop and set up a work-light for safety. Drilling in the dark is lazy planning and downright silly.
• Fifth- chuck type. The Bosch has a retractable-sleeve 1/4″ Hex chuck which only fits bits with the same base. This restricts the amount of items you can use with it – but you are driving screws, not using ship augers. The Milwaukee has a 3/8″ ratcheting keyless chuck. Tried-and-true, but not a great benefit for something used primarily to drive screws.

I first began using these types of drills when I got sick of my 18V hammerdrill constantly pulling my toolbelt down due to the weight. I bought and currently use a 7.2 volt Dewalt cordless screwdriver. I didn’t bother to mention it in the review as it is a NiCad battery which is a dying technology and inferior to the power and lifespan of Lithium Ion, and with the battery installed it weighs 4 lbs. It is durable, and I have no complaints about its service to me. But it has no other kit components in that 7.2 volt range (with exception to a right-angle driver) and the batteries for it are both hard to find and expensive.

Other benefits to consider: The Milwaukee has about 200 attachments for their 12V LI line and many of them are very useful tools. Remember, don’t buy the drill for the other items in the kit. I have made that mistake and regretted it.

Personal Overall Preference: The Bosch. Lower price, lighter weight, same batteries, smaller size, comparable power, backed by Bosch and the Bosch warranty

Recently, I read a letter-to-the-editor in a construction publication for which I have much respect, and the author was critical of those that consider a laser on a sliding compound miter saw a good feature and even a need. The author wrote that all “true finish carpenters would never use a laser as they prefer to touch the blade against the workpiece and utilize their angle-marking skills. They would rather trust their pencil than some flimsy technology.” Now, I can understand those that do not trust new or inadequate technology. And anyone that has read the reports on new tools with laser guides can surely tell you that the budget and economy brands have such inaccuracy to their lasers so as to render them a useless distraction. However, since my introduction to laser-guided sliding compound miter saws, I have a much different view. My first experience with such a saw was four years ago when one of my associates purchased the Hitachi 10″ slider. I was floored by the accuracy on the first cut and time it saved me. Once you get used to which side of the blade the laser is tasked-on, it is a breeze. I have since purchased the Bosch 10″ and while I like the saw the arbor mounted laser does leave a bit to be desired.

However, just like un-wracking your saw or sighting-in a rifle, as long as you verify the accuracy every so often, you should be fine. These saws have come a long way and I wouldn’t think of buying a miter saw without a laser at this point. The time savings and material savings are both worth their weight in gold. That said, don’t go to fast in tape-only cut alignment as you may find yourself investing in a new tape measure more often than you like. Next I intend to try out one of these Bosch Gravity Rise Miter Saw Stands. If it is as good as the one for the table saw, I will be more than pleased.